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This beloved, ancient, way-uptown anchor of the pizza chainlet might be mildly trendified, with a few modish items like crème brûlée, but the waiters are still impatient and scold you if you change your mind. And the pizza tastes like childhood: For the purists, a big, crispy-edged margherita, cheese and tomato perfectly balanced. Cash, of course. Some customs are not easy to gentrify. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

A full bar is available Friday and Saturday only.