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The paneled ceiling, ice boxes holding bottles of Estrella beer, and the semi-open kitchen give this narrow tapas bar under an access bridge to the Port Authority bus terminal the feel of a social club, as does the convivial chatter of the Hell's Kitchen eccentrics who come here to watch soccer at the dingy formica bar while chowing down on Spanish grub that, while satisfying and generously apportioned, might offend purists: the patatas bravas are simply onion-covered French fries; manchego cheese is accompanied by proscuitto instead of Serrano; a Cuban sandwich sometimes pops up on the list of daily specials; and hard liquor bottles far outnumber those of wine. The owner and "host" Guillermo Vidal, an Argentinian of Spanish ancestry whose artwork hangs on the walls along with frumpy red and yellow flags, also serves up a skirt steak in his home country's style that former neighborhood fixture Jimmy Fallon has been known to enjoy. — Daniel Maurer